In extraordinarily simple terms, there are three chief techniques employed. You want to be able to switch strategies almost instantly as the course of the game unfolds.
The Blockade
This is comprised of building a 6-deep wall of pieces, or at least as deep as you can manage, to block in your opponent’s checkers that are on your 1-point. This is judged to be the most acceptable strategy at the begining of the match. You can assemble the wall anywhere between your eleven-point and your 2-point and then move it into your home board as the game progresses.
The Blitz
This is comprised of locking your home board as quick as as you can while keeping your opponent on the bar. For example, if your challenger tosses an early 2 and shifts one piece from your one-point to your three-point and you then toss a five-five, you can play 6/1 six/one eight/three 8/3. Your opposer is now in serious calamity considering that they have 2 checkers on the bar and you have locked half your home board!
The Backgame
This tactic is where you have two or more pieces in your opponent’s inner board. (An anchor spot is a point consisting of at a minimum two of your checkers.) It must be employed when you are extremely behind as this strategy greatly improves your chances. The better places for anchor spots are close to your opponent’s smaller points and either on adjacent points or with a single point in between. Timing is integral for an effectual backgame: at the end of the day, there is no reason having two nice anchor spots and a complete wall in your own home board if you are then forced to break up this straight away, while your opposer is getting their checkers home, taking into account that you do not have any other spare pieces to shift! In this situation, it is more tolerable to have pieces on the bar so that you can preserve your position up until your challenger gives you an opportunity to hit, so it will be a good idea to attempt and get your opponent to get them in this case!