In exceptionally general terms, there are three main strategies employed. You need to be able to switch tactics almost instantly as the action of the game unfolds.
The Blockade
This involves creating a 6-thick wall of pieces, or at least as deep as you can achieve, to lock in your competitor’s pieces that are on your 1-point. This is judged to be the most acceptable course of action at the start of the match. You can assemble the wall anyplace inbetween your 11-point and your 2-point and then move it into your home board as the game continues.
The Blitz
This is comprised of closing your home board as quick as possible while keeping your challenger on the bar. i.e., if your opponent tosses an early 2 and shifts one checker from your one-point to your 3-point and you then roll a 5-5, you can play 6/1 6/1 8/3 eight/three. Your competitor is then in serious trouble considering that they have two pieces on the bar and you have closed half your inner board!
The Backgame
This course of action is where you have 2 or higher pieces in your opponent’s home board. (An anchor is a point consisting of at a minimum two of your checkers.) It would be used when you are decidedly behind as this strategy greatly improves your opportunities. The better locations for anchors are towards your opponent’s smaller points and also on adjoining points or with one point separating them. Timing is important for a competent backgame: besides, there is no reason having two nice anchors and a complete wall in your own inner board if you are then required to break down this straight away, while your opponent is moving their checkers home, taking into account that you do not have any other extra checkers to move! In this situation, it’s more tolerable to have checkers on the bar so that you might maintain your position until your opposer provides you an opportunity to hit, so it may be a wonderful idea to try and get your challenger to get them in this situation!